12 Temple Place Restaurant

Meet 'the new home of Modern British cuisine'. This is the bold claim of 12 Temple Place Restaurant where Aberdeen born Brian Sparks is operating a menu that is user friendly with dishes which combine traditional British recipes with modern innovations. 'I want to keep dishes as natural and local as possible to stay in the concept of modern British cuisine' says Brian.

Number 12 is part of the Swissotel complex, with 189 elegantly fitted and comfortable bedrooms including 12 suites overlooking the River Thames or the Garden Courtyard. 5 star hotels are not generally prone to falling short of expectation, and at Swissotel guests will find a Lavazza espresso coffee machine, extensive tea stations, bathrobes, electronic safes, hairdryers, Swiss Spa tradition bath products, in-room entertainment, wi-fi internet, and air-conditioning.

With a restaurant seating 50 inside and a further 50 in the Garden Courtyard options are available and the prospect of al-fresco dining amidst the sound and motion of waterfalls, with plant life to match, is an enticing one. Either way how does this claim to better eating translate into reality?

From amongst seven starters expect to find roasted parsnip soup, poached quail and Scotch egg, or semolina dumplings with roast wild mushrooms, mizuna, sorrel and pumpkin seed oil. The humble bunny is back, as ever the wild ones are best, and here they pop up as a terrine with gold raisins, liver parfait that lifts the flavours, and cider jelly. And speaking of flavours let's say it for char-grilled scallops combined with Stornoway black pudding and pickled pear purée.

Whilst this is a handsome start to a meal that is clearly going to be top of the morning, the full justification for the claims made by Brian Spark emerge most clearly in the array of main dishes, of which some eight or so await your pleasure. Much has been said recently about the virtues of a good piece of mutton, most of which is true, but the compromise between mutton and lamb, or hogget, is superb. Here stuffed loin of Elwy Valley hogget meets braised Savoy cabbage, turnip purée and glazed petit onions to make a memorable dish. A roast Buccleuch beef fillet is equally commendable especially when served with oxtail and bone marrow pie. Those who wait upon the sea could have a choice between potato crusted fillet of brill with roasted scallop, crosnes, chard and caviar, or roast halibut on the bone with smoked aubergine.

By this time desserts beckon and a choice of around seven is almost certain to include a selection of British cheese with figs. Beyond that a simple Bakewell tart with raspberries and clotted cream might be competing with an Earl Grey chocolate fondant with orange marmalade ice cream.

The taking of wine with your meal does not have to be an expensive exercise, though it could very easily become so, such are the delights on offer here. The choice is, of course, entirely yours . . . . .

Check out menu changes and promotions on their Website. How does the idea of endless weekends appeal?