54 Farringdon

If there is one cuisine that seems to often elude the tastebuds of the connoisseurs it is that extraordinarily subtle blend of enticing spices and herbs that go to make up the exotic dishes which constitute Malaysian cooking. Of course rather than complain it might just be wiser to acknowledge that it only leaves more for the rest of us. Perhaps David Suchet had it right when he said, 'Fifty Four is a hidden Clerkenwell gem. . . . One of my favourite restaurants.'

At 54 Farringdon the full delight of this combination of Malaysian and European riches of the table are impeccably presented in surroundings that reflect the culture of Malay and the countries with which it has long and historical connections. One thinks instinctively of Java, Sumatra and Siam, and the ancient routes used by Arab Indian and Chinese traders.

Malay food depends heavily upon fresh aromatic herbs and roots ground into a paste, with fresh coconut milk and red chilis as prime ingredients. This is the wonderful rempah rempah and it can - and does - transform a dish from outstanding to exotic.

The British twist is no mere gesture. They don't come much more British than free range Gloucester Old Spot Roast pork belly with mash and curley kale, followed by rhubarb tart with rhubarb sorbet, and this is sharing the same menu as prawns in sweet potato and coconut with natural yoghurt, red snapper simmered in a mild sour and spicy aromatic curry, and banana fritter served with lemongrass ice cream.

Sunday lunch, a high point of the 5ifty 4our week offers great scope, with the English smoked mackerel with horseradish, roast beef or roast lamb complete with trimmings, and homemade ice cream and sorbet. Or go Malaysian and start with deep fried roast garlic squid in black pepper with homemade chili sauce, beef or lamb rendang, and a pandan brûlée.

A speciality of the house is the champagne menu, the full three course à la carte with a complimentary glass of free champagne, and they do emphasise this is the real thing, not sparkling wine. Their spices are ground daily, the bread is baked daily, chicken and eggs are free-range. There are two-course quick lunches and pre-theatre dinners, wine tasting and food tasting events are held. A 7-course Malaysian taster menu enables those who have not yet savoured this path to delight to do so over a well spread range of flavours and textures. And if it's time for a modest snack to keep you going before setting out for home, the Malaysian Platter mingles well with some ice cold Asian beer or a glass of wine.

There are people who pass through life blissfully unaware that the wines of a different continent are perfectly capable of complimenting the food of another's. Here there is comprehensive wine list chosen specifically to reflect the unique features of  Malaysian cuisine with a British twist, and for some it can be a real revelation.

Their Website, like everything else about 5ifty 4our, is straightforward, informative and done with style.