8 Kings Road

Gaining admission to this stylish Southsea restaurant could lead to the same thoughts that entered my head when, as a young impecunious naval Upper Yardman I entered the Sugar Loaf and quickly realised the cost of one of their starters would consume most of my then monthly pay.

However, persistence is the watchword, for not only is the food good here is it is very reasonably priced, offering the best in French cooking from a team led by Head Chef Karl Byron and providing the epicurean tendencies of Hampshire with a place to go and be happy.

Starters of foie gras, honeycomb, truffle and grape salad, or smoked duck with potato salad and blackberry chutney quickly set a standard that is maintained throughout the meal, where main courses of turbot, blewits and caviar sauce or venison with red cabbage, chestnuts and raspberry juice do not allow themselves to be overshadowed by beef chateaubriand.

Seated in such august surroundings more reminiscent of a stately home than even a very upmarket bank you may feel inspired by thoughts of revenge for punitive overdrafts long past to splurge on the wine, a task that would not be difficult with some 250 bins from which to choose, including one or two p.o.a., but many at kindly prices that will make your day.

Writing in Hampshire Society, Kate Thompson says, "a culinary masterpiece - it's the all round eating experience that Portsmouth has long been waiting for".