Those who enjoyed A Cozinha - the kitchen - when it was in the city centre, have continued to follow it since it relocated to new premises in Alfred Place, Kingsdown, in 2000. Chef/Proprietor Ian MacFarlane has continued to produce fresh, wholesome, consistently good Portuguese food, cooked to order in real time. Portuguese cuisine is often lamentably undervalued, though it is clear the inhabitants of Bristol know a good thing when they see it.

To ease customers into the mood complimentary bread and olives are served with the drinks as you pore over the menu and enjoy the unhurried pace and tranquil sounds of warmer climes. For those who like to keep an eye on the action, Ian encourages the feeling of informality by working in a cozinha that gives ample viewing from the restaurant area, a nice touch that may not be unique but in this location has a genuine feel to it. And that word, genuine, somehow seems to sum up the whole ethos of A Cozinha.

Thoroughly recommended from a menu that embraces seafood in a big way is a salt cod, red onion, sweet pepper and chickpea salad to start, though all the other 'entradas' are equally tempting! Ian's piece de resistance is the Portuguese classic cataplana, a fish stew served in the generous copper pot in which it has been cooked and full of a wide variety of seafood, ample for two people. The choice of desserts is not wide as all are homemade, but one suspects many may be out of the running by that stage anyway. Well spoken of is the orange and almond roulade and there is also a refreshing lemon tart, while the rich chocolate torte would satisfy the most addictive chocoholic.

A Portuguese weighted wine list produces some excellent wines from a country more noted for its fine ports. A Cozinha is truly a place for connoisseurs of all that is worthy in good eating. That it may never rise to dizzy starred heights is more a matter for relief - it should just carry on as it is.