This is a real find. Not only does it do what its name says it does, it does it extremely well, possibly because it resists the temptation to over-complicate and fuss. Local delicacies make regular appearances. The speciality of the house is the famous Speyside platter with its smoked salmon, whiskied chicken live pate, smoked venison, cheeses, wholemeal bread, oatcakes and salad.

The kick, however comes, as so often, in the tail. The restaurant formerly housed a whisky tasting centre, this in the town that styles itself 'the malt whisky capital of the world'. When the centre transformed into its new role much of the very fine stock of malts appears to have remained in situ with the result that after the meal can agreeably take quite a lot longer than the meal itself. There is also a good wine list. Open all year except January.