Some day somebody with time on their hands will work out the ratio of outstanding restaurants per head of the population in any particular place. For instance, even with Shaun Hill's departure, Ludlow must be a strong candidate for best town in this respect. I would hazard a guess that Scotland must also be pretty well up the national scale, a surmise that is certainly assisted by Abstract, formerly La Riviera, the dining part of the Glenmoriston Hotel, in Inverness.

Invaded recently by the TV cameras with Gordon Ramsay in close pursuit, a remarkably clean bill of health was delivered by the maestro. Now, with a new name, Abstract is delivering the goods in no uncertain fashion. The size of the menu has been greatly reduced, a tasting menu has been added, but only at The Chef's table and for a very limited number of people. For the great majority starters could include an assiette of Loch Dewart salmon prepared in three ways tataki, smoked and croquette, or foie gras ravioli with spring vegetables, grilled pancetta and fresh herbs.

Main courses embrace Fillet of Black Isle beef, a gratin of large macaroni, roasted tomatoes and oregano jus, or roasted North Sea turbot with pork ravioli, broad beans and new season mousseron. Chef Loic Lefebvre, who with a distinguished career in culinary France clearly has his eye set on adding to his collection of Michelin Stars, seems to be an exponent of the slow cooking art, and a close encounter with his slowly baked wild sea bass will leave you in no doubt as to his ability.

For sheer artistic manipulation of the tastebuds try the citrus fruit rosace Amaretto cream, lemon and thyme sorbet. When you are recommended to order the dessert of your choice well in advance you know there's a treat in store.

The wine list is by no means to be taken lightly, service is well-groomed and precise and the location, looking out over the River Ness is agreeable.