How refreshing it is to have in London one of the world's outstanding chefs whose interest in his profession shows every sign of remaining rooted on the subject rather than straying into the distractions of media and self promotion. The mantle of Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester is worn by Head Chef Jocelyn Herland.

Quirky design elements are sure to draw attention; lacquer walls studded with green silk buttons, reflecting the greenery of Hyde Park opposite, and a modern chandelier of glowing leaves. Table Lumière provides a semi-secluded separation for six from the rest within a kind of glowing tent, and Salon Park Lane, formerly known as the Terrace Room, is bright an airy with lovely views of the park beyond, and there's also Salon Privé. The Dorchester is adapting itself to the times and a group of the heavy names in culinary prowess are looking forward to taking on the aspirations of one of the most demanding clienteles in the world.

What is described as a 'modern but refined French cuisine' means pretty well exactly what it says. Some of signature dishes include seasonal vegetables cooked in a cocotte; fillet of Angus beef and seared foie gras Rossini, sacristain potatoes and Périgueux sauce and the memorable rum baba like in Monte-Carlo. In fact it is invidious to single out any one dish or facet of the meal for anything other than sheer gastronomic bliss, ably rounded off by a wine list that leaves your heart full.

Not surprisingly, they've been awarded 'Two Michelin Stars - Rising Three' in 2009. But there is always room for this kind of perfection once in a while, more often if your circumstances dictate, and we should be grateful that Monsieur Ducasse has the style and ability to provide it in the heart of London to a world that is sometimes seen as too ready to settle for second best.