Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester

How refreshing it is to have in London one of the world's outstanding chefs whose interest in his profession shows every sign of remaining rooted on the subject rather than straying into the distractions of media and self promotion. The mantle of Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester is worn by Head Chef Jocelyn Herland

The Terrace at The Dorchester, formerly one of the private dining rooms and now renamed, seats 70. The transformation is both exciting and original, with a Table Lumiere that provides semi-secluded separation for six from the other 64 within a kind of glowing tent. After 76 years the hotel is adapting itself to the times and a group of the heavy names in culinary prowess are looking forward to taking on the aspirations of one of the most demanding clienteles in the world.

What is described as a "modern but refined French cuisine" means pretty well exactly what it says with a noticeable lack of the more bloating influences of French cuisine.

Three options are available, starting with a seven-course taster menu at £115, three courses of starter, fish or meat main course and pudding for £75, or four courses of starter, fish, meat and pudding for £95.

With squid gracefully wrapped in light pastry and partnered by a selection of baby vegetables that would delight the most delicate diner, langoustines, foie gras chicken and truffle terrine confidence grows by the minute.

Main courses of halibut and venison receive universal acclaim and the closing stages of the meal are given impetus by selections of pastries, caramel bonbons and nougats, but not before leaving space for a memorable rum baba. In fact it is invidious to single out any one dish or facet of the meal for anything other than sheer gastronomic bliss, ably rounded off by a wine list that leaves your heart full and your pockets significantly lighter.

But there is always room for this kind of perfection once in a while, more often if your circumstances dictate, and we should be grateful that Monsieur Ducasse has the style and ability to provide it in the heart of London to a world that is sometimes seen as too ready to settle for second best.