Albany, The

The Albany has a stunning position on the bank the River Thames, opposite Hampton Court Palace and dates back to 1886, when it provided a cosy base for an up-and-coming theatrical community that had been forced out of the West End scene. The atmosphere was one of jollity, and lasted the year round with theatre and regattas supplying the raison d'etre. Events have come full circle and The Albany is now back in the mainstream.

Contemporary pubs such as these usually share a number of characteristics. An important feature is space, preferably a restaurant where you are comfortable, not over-awed, and not sharing elbow space with the next table, however sociable they may be. Good, too, to have a garden, though there are few as large as the one at The Albany with a huge area of 300 seats as an optional al fresco eating out space, and by no means least a roomy and well stocked bar where you can actually be served without undue delay. After all, drinking should be taken seriously.

If a pub offers all of these, and is in a good location, there is little reason in today's economic climate why it should not flourish. The Albany provides ample evidence that this is true. It has a stunning position overlooking the River Thames, and is one of those places that have surfaced on the mainstream of casual eating in the UK in the last ten years and are taking an increasing share of the market, evidenced by their growth in numbers and the popularity of what they have to offer. If this results in a 'type' there is certainly no harm in that.

But of course there are other factors at play, not least of which is the food and drink. The term 'gastropub' covers a multitude of blessings, and it is possible to see influences of brasserie, bistro, restaurant and even café at work within the great gastro umbrella. So expect to find no one single cuisine, but a blend designed to provide something for everybody, no matter what their treat may be.

To set the right note of fashionable sociability there are sharing plates, Spanish tapas of prosciutto, Manchego, sardines and tortilla, a baked Camembert with rustic bread and onion marmalade, Greek mezze of taramasalata with humus, tzatziki, feta and flatbread, or a pizzette with garlic, rocket and Parmesan.

Amongst the starters, touchingly referred to as 'little dishes', there is freshly made soup, smoked haddock with poached egg, crab cakes with tomato, chilli and coriander salsa, seared tuna carpaccio, or cider braised onion tart. Look, too, for Black Pearl scallops when the market is right. The salads - sorry, that should read 'leaves' - offer chicken with chorizo skewers, watercress and minted cucumber raitha, for the seafood fiends some seared salmon Caesar with marinated anchovies and parmesan or buffalo mozzarella with warm roast vine tomatoes and rocket.

These days no self-respecting gastropub can afford to be without its pizza range; expect to find a classic Margherita of tomato, mozzarella and basil, or the challenging diavolo spiced chicken with peppadew peppers, chilli and tabasco. For those who like to build their own pizzas you can, for a modest sum, add to the basic dish with a choice from chorizo, olives, jalapenos, mushrooms or bacon. Or of course the whole lot if you're feeling that way.

Pastas include fettuccine with salmon, prawns, coconut, spring onions and chilli, chef's choice risotto, or lasagne with chicken, blue cheese and spinach. For the big event there is always a fish of the day on request. The steak burger, which has risen from the confines of fast food chains, carves a niche for itself on the menu and comes with Swiss cheese, bacon, relish and fries. The calves' liver with mash, pancetta and baby onions is worth trying too. For hearty eaters there are good fillet steaks with horseradish Chantilly, green beans and frites or rack of lamb with asparagus.

A wide range of supporting dishes includes whipped potato, Belgian frites and mayo, and greens, leeks and peas. For those who have to be lashed to a plank to induce them to eat root vegetables, try them here, honey roasted and altogether different from the all too often pallid steamed variety. For desserts resort to the blackboard, where there is always a good display, often with some of the local cheeses to set the buffs alight.

The Albany stocks a wide range of beers, both well loved draught ales and bottled from further afield. The wine list covers plenty of territory from traditional clarets to Pinot Grigio, and champagne by the glass or bottle is always available. Service is cheerful, brisk and totally in keeping with the friendly nature of a good English gastropub..

A well constructed Website enables you to keep in touch with menu changes or forthcoming events. Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings.