Alimentum

Something new for Cambridge here, and always welcome in a city that still has way to go with its eating out possibilities.

John Hudgell has set out on a journey that takes into account such matters as animal welfare and the impact of his restaurant on the environment beyond. OK, so he's green, and clearly proud of being so. This is the first restaurant in UK to serve 'ethical' foie gras, and all their fish and free range meat comes from sustainable sources.

His menus change with the seasons, local and organic ingredients are used whenever possible, not because that's fashionable but because he clearly believes that this is the way to best results - and in the long term, survival.

Their table du jour menu offers two or three set courses at lunchtimes and post work and pre theatre. Their à la carte menu offers six choices per course and could start with smoked eel and salad of bacon and quince, or perhaps a bowl of Jerusalem artichoke soup, buttered artichokes and truffle mousse.

Slow cooked Denham estate venison is served with celeriac, carrots and gratin dauphinoise, or the delicious pan fried cod, with cauliflower, fennel and chicken jus gras. Some wicked puddings simply cannot be avoided, and as honey crème brûlée with honeycomb is the sort of dessert, the memory of which will remain with you.

An excellent wine list that could grace a College high table offers numerous options by the glass or carafe, as well as the bottle of course. This is a restaurant which is run with right aims in mind and I wish it every success.