Allium

Allium has quickly established a name for itself in the highly competitive world of restaurant eating that is the Cotswolds. Formerly at the Wickham Vineyard, where their success was notable, they re-established themselves in Fairford, one of Gloucestershire's most attractive market towns, amongst surroundings and people that they understood.

In 2004, the Good Food Guide awarded them the Hampshire Restaurant of the Year, and it was therefore scant surprise to anybody that once in their new home the same Guide honoured them with the Gloucestershire Newcomer of the Year Award, and a rating of 6/10. They are also Michelin-listed with three knives and forks.

So having admired the prizes, let's take a closer look at what Allium is all about. Décor is modern to the point of chic, but not so unrelenting as to iron out any real memory of its effect. The evening menu follows the seasons, the lunch menu changes daily. For those with time on their hands the Gourmand menu offers a taste of a wide range of courses.

The Cotswolds has always been renowned for the quality of its produce, and with organic options, such as rare breed organic meats from Chesterton Farm at Cirencester now added, the choice is dazzling. There is no pressure to capitalise on modern all-season food, rather an acceptance of the best of what is naturally on offer. Say what you will this introduces an element of order within the menus that many find increasingly welcome.

Lunch is served from Wednesday to Saturday only, and could include starters of vitello tonnato or cured Hebridean salmon with crepe parmentier and dill dressing followed by breast of Great Farm guinea fowl with chestnuts and sprouts or pan fried fillet of Lechlade trout with sauté potatoes, braised fennel and red wine sauce. For dessert, there's the steamed apple and mixed fruit sponge with calvados custard and apple pie ice cream or the ubiquitous cheese board featuring local cheeses with homemade bread or biscuits.

Their seasonal menu is quite varied and might offer loin of hare with winter chanterelles and fig compote; ham hock, apple and sage terrine; fillet of gurnard with pickled cucumber, sour plum and seaweed or tortellini of salt cod with braised oxtail and roasted squid.

Mains skip lightly through breast of pheasant with roasted chestnuts and brussel sprout; fillet of plaice with cèps, braised Borlotti beans and crisp chicken wings; Lucy Muller's Texel lamb with fennel, lentils and beetroot puree or fillet of line caught sea bass with sauté potatoes, leeks, red wine sauce.

Follow with lemon and raspberry polenta cake with Amaretto ice cream; prune and Armagnac tart or mulled pear with blue cheese ice cream and crystallised walnuts and for the sturdy a selection of artisan cheeses from the South West, each dish carrying a recommendation from the wine list.

Talking of which, take time to dally over a list of over 450 wines, including 35 dessert wines with contributions from India, Greece and 15 from England as well as the more traditional sources. Some 20 wines are offered by the glass.

It would be a pretty soul-less person who found it impossible to unwind in this haven of tranquillity where the aspirations of the customer are carefully anticipated in advance.

For more information, do visit their Website.