It is a sad fact of life that with certain notable exceptions the level of gastronomy in Cornwall is not, shall we say, on the same level of provision as Ludlow or certain parts of Edinburgh, a fact perceived some years ago and oh so successfully exploited by the excellent Rick Stein. So when something like The Alvorada, with its distinctive approach comes along, rejoicing is in order. The fact that they've been doing it for many years suggests there is a living to be made this way as well.

As in so many Portuguese restaurants this is a family show specialising in Portuguese cuisine, using local produce and speciality items imported from Portugal. As a result you will have little difficulty in detaching yourself from the overcrowded streets of Mevagissey in the height of summer and translating yourself to the genuine delights of caldeirada, cataplana, gambas and the wonderfully fresh seafood of Cornwall with a hint of the Douro. Alvorada, like many places in Cornwall, offers only a limited service between November and March, nor does it do lunch at any time, but the rest of the year they're hard at it.