Ambassador, The

Another addition to the old Exmouth Market site this non-nonsense light and airy building is a welcome addition to the area, where chef Tobias Jilsmark daily proclaims his skills to a menu that takes few prisoners and aims a determined swipe at some of the fancier efforts of chefs who would be famous rather than pleasing their customers, formerly to be seen in action at La Trompette and The Waterway.

The emphasis here is on rich well constructed dishes such as hock ballotine with nicely sticky caramelised onion, poached halibut served in an orange carrot purée studded with small Chantenay carrots, finished off with a little Alsace bacon. A Haughley Farm chicken breast is all that it should be, and is served with fresh morels and wilted wild garlic leaves. The style is maintained through the dessert with a quince and apply terrine with honeycomb brûlée.

The wine list speaks well for the cuisine and service is clearly popular and admired. It is sometimes said that the gastro movement is heading towards a uniformity that sees off character and individuality. All I can say is, not whilst places like The Ambassador and its team are around.