Anchor Inn, The

There is something compelling about a Devon pub by the sea, particularly when the beer garden is located strategically on the cliff-top. The Anchor Inn meets all the specifications, a colour-washed hotel, an integral part of a former smuggling village. The area is famous for its Beer stone, used in many prominent London buildings and in pottery. Our concern however is with the food, good wholesome fare that draws from the locality and certainly pulls in the punters.

Start with Thai crab, locally caught and dressed with Thai spices, mixed peppers, lemon juice and mayonnaise, with brown bread and butter, or grilled sardines (not local but served crisp-skinned on a bed of salad and finished with lemon butter). The grill produces excellent steaks but for real men there is no option but the Anchor platter, with rump and gammon steaks, sausage, pork chop, ribs, quarter chicken and a fried egg. It says "to share" on the menu, but most men I know would react to any such intrusion like a disgruntled terrier seeing off the house cat.

Every day brings it own flavour of homemade curry and bangers and mash comprises a whole Cumberland sausage on the traditional bed of mash with onion gravy. One of the specialities is the double of peppered gurnards and mackerel.

An inspiring and well-travelled wine list offers excellent choice, service is brisk and cheerful.