Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles

A long way from No 1 Devonshire Gardens, but the air is much better, even if your new premises are tucked away in the windowless room of a great hotel. It does seem slightly sad that this has to be so with such wonderful views around but once you adjust to the idea of an excursion into a time capsule loaded with smart service, notable wines and the sort of well drilled food that made Andrew Fairlie so respected in Glasgow, all is well.

Access to the delights of Perthshire produce on the doorstep has only tended to increase the quality of his dishes and combined with previous urban experience results are impressive. Small surprise that the title of Restaurant of the Year, awarded by the AA Restaurant Guide 2003, had come their way so early after opening.

The concept of a marriage of outstanding chefs with sonorous premises is a relatively happy one, especially as here where the great man is almost invariably to be seen at the stoves, not merely lending his name to the operation. House wine at £25, with set price dinner at £65 per head.