Taking its name from a renowned professional Roman glutton is a bit of a joke really, particularly when you consider the modest surroundings, the nine tables, minimal staff, and - wait for it - the incredibly low prices. Add to these modest attributes a shiny relatively new Michelin star (January 2008) and you will begin to get the picture. Chefs who lay great emphasis, rightly, on local ingredients might do well to trot along to Apicius for some real inspiration.

Tim Johnson, who. with his wife. has founded this place of the future, was chef to Paul Getty, experience which combines with his time spent with Gary Rhodes and Nico Ladenis to justify a sense of pedigree. Currently it's about six weeks wait for a reservation at weekends. The wine list is short, punchy and offers the only bit of financial breathtaking in sight, even if the results are sublime, with sensible half bottles where it matters. Definitely one for the little black book.