A sense of dèja vû may well prevail in the newly opened Arbutus in Frith Street, Soho when Chef Anthony Demetre returns to his old haunts at what, in 1993, was then Bistrot Bruno (Loubet). Now teamed up with manager Will Smith the pair are operating a 60-seater restaurant with a small bar for up to 12 people.

The décor carries much use of natural materials, colours and design motifs, including subtle use of the arbutus, or strawberry tree. Typical dishes include a salad of Jersey Royals, watercress, spring onions and goat's curd, sea bream, risotto of sea lettuce and cockles, or saddle of rabbit, shoulder cottage pie, hispi cabbage and mustard sauce.

Desserts of floating island with pink pralines and custard, or warm chocolate soup with caramelized brioche and pecan nuts help to reinforce the tendency towards innovation.

Expect also to see recreations of forgotten dishes such as pied-paquets, matelote of eel and tendron of veal, together with a selection of dishes designed to rouse thoughts of a montage of robust and light-hearted offerings from the kitchen.

A list of around 60 wines starts at £12.50 a bottle, with all wines served in 250ml carafes, a nice touch.