Amidst all the scintillating culinary delights which it is my pleasure to write about, there is always one that keeps on returning like the old faithful dog or the taste of breakfast kippers. It is, of course that wonderful British institution, fish and chips, a dish that has survived the assaults of the Indian sub continent, to name but one, having long ago established its place in our affections. Nonetheless, there is always that slight feeling of guilt, based on concerns of health and social acceptability.

So from time to time I take refuge in the advice of my worthy proprietor, advancing a case for the inclusion of this reassuringly traditional repast on restaurant-guide.com on grounds of character and the colourful nature of many of those who recourse to this great dish, both in good times as well as more stressful occasions. Invariably I return from this encounter full of admiration for his sagacity and breadth of mind, reassured that Fish and Chips is still number 36 on our list of officially recognised cuisines.

And so to Bridlington where Audrey's Fish and Chip Shop has been brightening the lives of its residents and visitors for years. It is endlessly arguable who first discovered that fish in batter deep fried in beef dripping is unassailably more attractive than any other sort, and Audrey's fish is, true to form, winningly moist inside a batter of manageable crispness. Nor is it just the fish - oh no. Savour those fluffy Maris Piper chips, double-cooked to remove any thoughts of clogged arteries, before moving on to the mushy peas, all, as they sometimes say in places where eating and drinking is regarded rather as an industrial process, washed down with cups of tea that would bring renewed life to a sailor's bell-bottoms.

So to finish on a political footnote, are you thinking what I'm thinking? Which is that once in a while it's rather good to be able to say enough's enough to the dieticians, and enjoy yourself. See you in Bridlington.