Bacchus

No harm in repeating the tag line for Bacchus - 'fine dining in trainers' - since it makes the point very aptly of what this reformed boozer is all about. Since dumbing down seems to be part of our national psyche just now there should be no surprise at this association between two extremes, but no matter.

What does matter is the cutting-edge dining which seems to have migrated from places like Bray and is reflected in such commodities as rabbit mousse with a fluid centre, green tea powder and lemongrass bubblebath; this last sparking off particularly nauseous concerns.

Décor is Scandinavian, combined with Finnish glassware, David Bowie music and Bernardaud plates to give a new life to this fine old pub. An à la carte menu that changes fortnightly, volunteers scallops with Japanese mushrooms, dashi and black pepper oil or pork jowl with langoustine, leek, nashi pear and soy paint.

Follow with a sirloin steak that survives translation almost unscathed, unlike the warm cod that comes sofrito traditional (Greek steak to you and me), espuma de baccaiao and honey. Amongst the desserts expect to find black olive financier, roasted pear ice cream, fig purée and pine nuts.

The wine list is reassuringly normal, and a five-course tasting menu at £36 has add-on wine matches for an additional £15. If I have just introduced you to a glimpse into the future you will be either ecstatic or, like me, rather hoping that the present may continue indefinitely. Apart from anything else my trainers are scrofulous beyond belief.