Located in an area engulfed with chain restaurants, this Marchmont Street mainstay stands out on its own not just because it's an independent venture, but here dishes are elevated from mundane to the memorable. The interior contributes to the experience as well; large glass windows, red and green tile work and delicate wooden furniture.

Angels on horseback arrive first - king prawns rolled in pancetta and pan-fried with a butter, white wine and spring onion sauce - or there is insalate tricolore, with buffalo mozzarella, Roma tomato, fresh basil and avocado, keeping the Italian flag flying high. Main courses partly toe the British line with grilled rib-eye steak, fish and chips, and wild boar and apple sausages, but a Parmesan crusted chicken escalope served with spaghetti in tomato sauce and rocket salad puts the focus back on Italy. Finally finish with a tiramisu, crème brûlée or warm chocolate and walnut brownie.