Barnes Grill

It is always good to see a chef of the well proven capabilities of Antony Worrall Thompson involving himself in a wider approach to good food than just preparing and cooking it. An increasing number of thinking people are coming round to the view that we are indeed what we eat. Anyone who doubts that wants to take a look at the stats and facts for eating during WW2.

Not only does AWT have an impressive list of books to his credit he also farms and produces his own raw materials, and the difference shows on the plate. The emphasis is on reality. So as you revel in the real flavours of, let's say, a pork dish, reflect also that it may well have come from one of AWT's Middle White pigs at his farm in nearby Henley on Thames, the same farm that produces many of the vegetables being served in his restaurants, an item that can so often be the stumbling point in other restaurants where distance and intensive farming methods may take their toll.

A menu of encouragingly convincing proportions immediately gets my vote by offering a selection of breads and lucques with new season olives, enough for 2. Yes, it costs £2.50, but it's there, that's what matters. Amongst the classic starters expect to find Mr Machin's Scottish smoked salmon, in a class of its own, devilled kidneys in baked field mushrooms, herring roes on toast, or a cold water prawn cocktail.

House starters yield amongst other things a 'menage a trois', a delightful concoction involving hot filo parcels of three very special cheeses mixed with appropriate vegetables, a 'prawn platter' that has to be irresistible to anybody who has a penchant for the succulent wee creatures, or chilli-salt squid with spring onions.

All the beef here is 35 day hung, inducing a tenderness and flavour not normally associated with the product in these days of hurry-hurry. Starting with the 10oz Big Notting Hill Burger, move on to the superb steaks of all classic cuts culminating in the classic T-bone, fillet and sirloin in one and weighing in at 24oz.

If you are hoping to order the House speciality, Anthony's own roast Middle White suckling pig with apple chilli jelly, make sure you come early in the evening. Leave it too late and you might have to make do with their mixed grill of lamb cutlet, steak, pork sausage, liver, dry cured bacon, kidney black pudding, with tomato and mushroom.

Many of us are pretty careful about chicken in these difficult times, but confidence increases when here you can order the Ark Farm free range 100 day chicken, served on grilled vegetables with a roast garlic and herb dressing.

Even the side orders are imaginative and include a mash of the day, buttered rice, creamed spinach, and fried or poached egg for that impulsive moment.

The wine list meets the challenge of a first class menu with aplomb - there is no need for anybody to feel neglected. Don't go when you are in a hurry, a restaurant of this quality needs to be savoured with time on your side.

For more detail on lunch menus, book titles and special events do click on their friendly and attractive Website.