Sam and Eddie Hart's latest venture, this attractive tapas bar - for that is all it is - is bringing new dimensions to the genre, with 24 seats round an L'shaped bar, and if you can find an empty one you're a better man than I am.

What the brothers have done is to restore integrity to the field of tapas, so whilst stronger brews are available the cognoscenti sip proper tasting glasses of manzilla or fino with nibbles of olives, almonds and tomato-rubbed bread (pan con tomate if you want to impress).

However, the idea is to leave some space for the delights to come, which could include pimientos de pardon, chorizo Ibérico, stuffed olives, plenty of fresh seafood, with large juicy prawns well to the fore, mussels a la plancha and delicious tuna tartare. Try and find a corner for the black pudding and piquillo pepper dish, and the pepper salad beautifully matched with anchovies. A dish of crema Catalana can slip down very well at the end of all this.

At £35 for six tapas dishes and a dessert in such elegant surroundings this is not an excessive way of enjoying yourself, and the company is great.