Battered

Volumes have been written about the great British standby, fish and chips, often accompanied by mushy peas. Battered takes all this a great deal further, lending a gourmet twist to the bill of fare, stirring in modern quirky interiors and such hitherto dubious delicacies as mini battered mars bars and jelly and ice cream.

Well, whatever turns you on, and to judge by early results the good folk of Leeds have taken to it like they have singing mermaids and topless sailors. This is certainly reflected through the menu, with deep-fried calamari, a bowl of scraps with salt and vinegar (formerly called groutlins I believe from my Lake District years), or some chip shop fishcakes in breadcrumbs amongst the starters.

Mains make space for a touch of gentility, with fish pie, grilled halibut steak and chicken chasseur well to the fore. Sweeter Things, desserts to you and me, include dinner lady classics (ask for choice of the day) and Pimms jelly and ice cream which, come to think of it is not a bad idea.

Battered has had a real bash of a launch, it is pulling in the people and given the spirits of the age could become a permanent success, quite apart from the fact that it is time someone shook up the cosy world of fish and chips.