Much has been said and written about the tremendous strides taken by what might be loosely termed the eating-out trade in the last 15 years or so. Most of it relates to the food and precious little to the drink, which all too often has not been of the same calibre as the food. Of course this may account for the relative paucity of prose.

So when somebody does take their cellar, however big or small that may be, seriously it is a cause for rejoicing. Wine snobs there undoubtedly are, but I would wager that the majority of those who order wine do so with precious little knowledge, but a sort of hazy idea about what they hope for.

Bedford and Strand is out to change all that. The brainchild of a group of five closely associated with the restaurant and wine trade, their mission in life is to establish and run the sort of place where they would like to go on the proverbial night off. And so the Wine Room and Bistro came into being.

Having rattled on about the wine, let me assure you the food is born of the same motivation and starters could include a salad of Roquefort cheese, walnuts, apple and chicory, or a chicken live pâté with warm brioche, refreshingly not toasted to within an inch of its life.

Main courses of Bedford sausages mingle well with such dishes as lobster lasagne, and a lemon tart brings the meal to a classic end. Or does it? Well, probably not because though the wine list is small, as yet, it is by no means to be lightly ignored, and the urge to embark upon a voyage of discovery may become imperative.

The whole place, with the exception of the furniture, is delightful and whilst wishing The Fab Five well, it is to be hoped that others will follow suit because the Bedford and Strand is by no means big enough to contain us all.