Bel and The Dragon - Godalming

Formerly a church, this handsome building lends itself ideally to its new role, with its original features, open beamed ceilings and flagstone floors ensuring that none of its former character is lost. Perhaps it is part of its previous incarnation but there does seem to be an air of unhurried calm about.

Outside a beautifully kept walled patio garden, all tropical plants ands whitewashed walls offers more than a whiff of Mediterranean influence, with patio heaters to help things along when required. Part of a small group of professionally run restaurants Bel and the Dragon emphasize that they are a restaurant first and foremost, cooking with care and using only the best fresh ingredients.

This is a claim which clearly connects with the aspirations of their customers, who support the restaurant with the strength of, dare we say, dragon's breath. The increasing popularity of tapas has helped spread the agreeable habit of 'nibbles' with drinks before a meal. So savour a bowl of rustic breads served with roast garlic, olive and oils as you browse the menu.

A wide choice of starters, many also available as main courses, could include roasted figs stuffed with blue cheese wrapped in parma ham on herb salad with apple balsamic, a parfait of chicken livers served with toasted brioche, spiced pear chutney and endive salad, or a puff pastry shell filled with sautéed seafood, wild mushrooms and herb vin blanc sauce.

Both starters and main courses offer a daily blackboard selection, always worth keeping a close eye upon, with special treats that a changing market has made possible. Amongst the regular mains expect to find Bel's posh roast half chicken, corn-fed, accompanied by bread sauce, sage and onion stuffing and roast jus, with chips, melt-in-the-mouth slow roasted lamb shoulder on herb mashed potato with redcurrant and mint jus, or chargrilled smoked haddock on spring onion potato cake and topped with sautéed spinach, poached egg and rarebit sauce.

For those who cannot go long without a good steak there is a choice between a chargrilled 10oz prime fillet or rib eye, with an option on either sautéed mushrooms and tomatoes or cheese glaze and peppercorn sauce.

All main courses are served with the Chef's choice of potatoes, and there are side orders of fresh market vegetables, salads and hand cut chips.

A good wine list should have about it an immediate attraction that grips your attention, and an initial glance here tells us that there is an excellent choice of house wines by the bottle or glass at prices that should bring a smile to your face. If it's celebration time there is a decent house champagne, also by the flute or bottle.

The main list contains contributions from the New World as well as more traditional sources, including a nifty and very affordable Puligny Montrachet from Domaine Jean Pascal. It is particularly good to see South African wines back in the market - some of their Pinotage makes really rewarding drinking.