Bell at Sapperton, The

Since 1999 the Bell has grown fast in reputation and popularity. In the view of many it has achieved this by sticking to what the customer wants but making sure it is the best and by not being afraid to introduce new ideas. When asked what is the secret of their success the tend to do a blank, but they know as well as their contented customers that it is because they listen to them. Catering is full of people pursuing their own agendas at the expense of their biggest asset, the customer, who then whinge loudly when they go bust.

The ingredients they employ are local, fresh and carefully sourced. I read of an MD recently who claimed that when he looked at his packaged burgers, which are without doubt superb, he knew not only which animal they had come from but could also claim acquaintance with it. If correct, this is indeed impressive. Back at the Bell they also have a menu that is broad-based and takes heed of the hiker and the gourmet (who might be the same anyway). A distinctive feature of the place is their campaign against the frequently sad English interpretation of snacks as with drinks. Be on the lookout for a wide range of imaginative and exciting internationally-derived tapas. Since some of them are on display in jars they are hard to miss.

No children under 10 years after 6.30pm.