Bell Inn, The

The Bell Inn represents yet another example of the upheaval moving through the world of cheffing, which goes Michelin-starred chef moves from London, sets up ace restaurant in a more relaxed part of the country, equals prosperity without stress. But another stage is now being added. Having established the upmarket country cousin, feels it necessary to add on a bucolic pub or two, where quality food is served in more rustic surroundings.

So Claude Bosi having set up Hibiscus in Ludlow with great élan, sends an away team to take over The Bell which is now making the culinary headlines. Robert Walker and his brigade are offering dishes such as Savoy cabbage and smoked bacon soup, and roast beef that is a gourmet's delight. His take on such good old fashioned items as scampi or sausage and mash is enough to make any others seem, well, just a little bit disappointing.

The gastropub movement, of which The Bell is one, is still making its collective mind up. Perhaps like the old brasserie it will leave room for widely varying interpretations. If that is true The Bell is in the top flight.