Bengal Clipper - London

After 15 years of culinary success at London's historic Spice Wharf, Bengal Clipper, its Captain and crew are in celebratory mood for 2009. Located at Shad Thames, Bengal Clipper has the distinction of being the only Indian restaurant at Spice Wharf, and attracts celebrities and regulars alike from an international clientele.

Most classifications of restaurants have their gourmet specialists, and there is no disputing that under the ownership of Mukit Choudhury and the well-honed skills of head chef Mohamed Asrar little, if anything, is left to chance, creating a multi national menu and a lively buzz factor. The many awards that the restaurant has received gives their progress a tangible indication of success.

Bengal Clipper has resisted the temptation to indulge in a vast menu that could baffle and upset and has concentrated instead upon a sensible number of dishes that embrace the spirit of true Indian cooking. For instance from eight first courses the Clipper treat offers five substantial samplers on a platter including fish tikka, lamb chop and Achari chicken. The fresh salmon samosa has the same familiar triangular shape and is cooked with five separate spices, whilst the Thal begoon bartha features baked eggplant steaks.

Mohamed's success with seafood is legendary and his Bengal tiger fish, denizen of the deep forest rivers, is cooked hara massala style to produce one of the restaurant's most favoured dishes. He is of course aided by the tradition and produce that arise from India's 7,600 km coastline and his Goan fish massala brings together Indian Ocean pomfret, tumeric and vinegar before cooking in a spicy and chilli hot sauce. If you have a hankering after prawns golda chingri massala offers spectacularly large prawns, fresh from the Bay of Bengal, served in a spicy red massala sauce, which are truly magnificent.

Lamb dishes include the ever popular rogan gosht - this Madras-hot lamb stew cooked in rich sauce, like many another simple dish still benefits from the hand of the expert. Marination is an important part of many of the dishes served here, and this is often where the opportunity exists for the ordinary to become the exemplary.

No self respecting Indian restaurant would be without its chicken dishes, very often providing the material for a signature dish even. At Bengal Clipper one such is the murgh Sagrana. The chicken is cooked with cream and spices, and is served with pilau rice, providing a firm favourite at weddings and other special occasions.

Sunday lunch as the English know it makes way for a buffet lunch which embraces more than ten Indian dishes, currently (2009) at much less than £10 per head with special rates for children.

There's a NCP nice and handy, or travel by tube to London Bridge or Tower Hill. Their cleancut and cheerful Website gives up to date information about arrangements for parties, changing menus and other restaurantalia. This is one blind date you won't forget, but book if you can.