For a variety of reasons which this strictly non-political guide would not even presume to mention Grantham has not always had a good press. The implication of one over-reported comment was that the town in general should get a life. Whether or not that is true matters not, but if for one moment it was, it might be that Muhammed Karim and his charismatic family have, by creating Bindi, gone some way towards bringing a welcome new dimension to this old established and historic Lincolnshire market town.

The building started off life as the local Liberal Party headquarters in 1897, a mildly baronial structure to which Muhammed and Ella have devoted their entrepreneurial skills. When you learn that their daughters Karishma and Henna were responsible for the bright, fresh interior décor which lends the restaurant a cheerful and vibrant atmosphere, worthy of the new wave of Indian restaurants in Britain, you will see this is truly a family enterprise.

Bindi takes Indian cuisine and presents it in a way that retains its integrity, make some minor concessions to national susceptibilities if need be, and looks at the origins of each individual dish with care. For instance from the Chef's pan there are five well known curries, all of which demand a blend of at least twelve individual flavours of herbs and freshly ground spices. Their spices are prepared freshly each day and whether your taste is for rogan josh, korma, bhuna or dansak, the chicken, meat or prawns that you have chosen will be very identifiable. This is cooking with care, not a big pot in the centre of the kitchen adapted to suit the dish on order.