Of the many inns of this name throughout Britain, the one near Witney has to be the one that springs to mind for many folk, tucked away in the rolling folds of the Cotswold countryside, and possessing tremendous warmth and character. The provision of food that provides a good blend between gourmet and comfort is uppermost in their minds, with an invocation of local ingredients wherever possible. Within a few miles of Oxford, Chipping Norton and major motorways the Bird is an ideal location, and its Cotswold stone construction echoes a note of stability and permanence that reassures and encourages close contact.

The recent redesigning of the interiors has brought an acceptable note of comfort and 21st century living, without impeding the historic features that are a much loved part of our ancient inns, the sort of things that visitors from afar marvel at, and the locals quietly admire and accept as part of their heritage. A large part of the work has revolved round the bedrooms which offer modern luxury and comfort to a high level. Egyptian cotton bed linen, wall mounted plasma TV with freeview channels, direct dial telephones are amongst the amenities that these well furnished suites take in their stride. Their per room rates are particularly attractive.

In a dining room rich with dark colour, dishes that transcend the normal rules of engagement gladden the hearts of those who look for food that pleases and restores. The evening menu opens with some nibbles, mixed olives, anchovy sticks, followed by a selection of six starters amongst which expect to find smoked salmon macaroni with fresh basil, Serrano ham, celeriac remoulade and aged balsamic, or pan fried scallops, with celeraric, apples and bacon.

Main courses weave a steady route amongst renowned British favourites, with pan-fried calf's liver, confit cabbage and rosti potato, a grilled pork chop with roast garlic and lemon oil or wild sea bass fillet, braised fennel and sauce vierge. All the meat on their menu is locally sourced, thus greatly increasing the feelings one may have towards the prospect of a rib-eye steak with foie gras butter, fries and watercress.