Bird in Hand, The

Of the many inns of this name throughout Britain, the one near Witney has to be the one that springs to mind for many folk, tucked away in the rolling folds of the Cotswold countryside, and possessing tremendous warmth and character. The provision of food that provides a good blend between gourmet and comfort is uppermost in their minds, with an invocation of local ingredients wherever possible.

Within a few miles of Oxford, Chipping Norton and major motorways the Bird is an ideal location, and its Cotswold stone construction echoes a note of stability and permanence that reassures and encourages close contact.

The recent redesigning of the interiors has brought an acceptable note of comfort and 21st century living, without impeding the historic features that are a much loved part of our ancient inns, the sort of things that visitors from afar marvel at, and the locals quietly admire and accept as part of their heritage.

A large part of the work has revolved round the bedrooms which offer modern luxury and comfort to a high level. Egyptian cotton bed linen, wall mounted plasma TV with freeview channels, direct dial telephones are amongst the amenities that these well furnished suites take in their stride. Their per room rates are particularly attractive.

In a dining room rich with dark colour, dishes that transcend the normal rules of engagement gladden the hearts of those who look for food that pleases and restores. The evening menu opens with some nibbles, mixed olives, anchovy sticks, followed by a selection of six starters amongst which expect to find smoked salmon macaroni with fresh basil, Serrano ham, celeriac remoulade and aged balsamic, or pan fried scallops, with celeraric, apples and bacon.

Main courses weave a steady route amongst renowned British favourites, with pan-fried calf's liver, confit cabbage and rosti potato, a grilled pork chop with roast garlic and lemon oil or wild sea bass fillet, braised fennel and sauce vierge. All the meat on their menu is locally sourced, thus greatly increasing the feelings one may have towards the prospect of a rib-eye steak with foie gras butter, fries and watercress.

Puddings vary greatly here, by which I mean that they are all good but some are better than others. Very much a matter of preference - indeed I know those who don't even entertain having them at all - but see below! Meanwhile consider the merits of dark chocolate fondant with milk ice cream as against a pineapple tatin, or the much-loved pecan and maple syrup tart with a splash of Bourbon whiskey.

The alternative I had in mind was, of course, a selection of English cheese, to include Oxford Blue, Cotswold Organic brie, Kingham Haddon gold, all served with quince jelly, apricot and orange chutney and biscuits.

Meals at the Bird may take longer in preparation than some other restaurants, but when I know that this is because they are all freshly prepared to order I just smile and order another bottle. Talking of which, house wine starts at £11.95 or some can be ordered in large or not so large glasses. It is their proud claim that if you are a wine buff their cellar list will read like a sonnet from the Bard. I see no reason to dispute that and can only urge you to get along there and see what?s on offer.

Lunch can start with Mrs Lyall's scrambled eggs before progressing to Billy's sausages and mash with plenty of red onion marmalade, and some of that vanilla pannacotta with poached rhubarb

More details on their delightful bedrooms and menu changes, can be resolved by a visit to their Website.