Bistro at Hotel du Vin - Glasgow

We hear a great deal about recycling these days - du Vin recycles attractive but un-loved buildings to restore real gems in the best tradition of British understated style.

Complement that with all that is best in the French bistro ethos, bars that reach out to please, and you have a setting that provides an inspirational background for people to meet, do business, get married, provide a base for golf or fishing, somewhere you can call your own for a private celebration, a spa or - most engagingly - a wine school that breaks the mould.

In Glasgow, du Vin has taken on the notable and highly respected One Devonshire Gardens, set in a tree-lined Victorian terrace in the fashionable and exciting West End of Glasgow. The list of awards would take up the whole of this review, each one of which must have its own particular pleasure to du Vin's owners; suffice to say that an appreciative press and côrps de critiques has not been slow off the mark to demonstrate its feelings.

Spread over five joined Town Houses, the luxurious collection of bedrooms offer an unparalleled level of luxury, with luxurious duvets and Egyptian cotton bedding, fluffy bathrobes, satellite TV, CD and DVD player, mini bar stocked with treats, fresh tea, coffee and milk, and generously sized and plentiful toileteries. Some of the newly refurbished rooms forsake Victorian splendour for a more contemporary feel, including monsson showers. Tempting bottles of Macallan of appropriate size to the type of room are available on booking throughout 2009.

In the classy hallmark du Vin bistro a choice of four starters could include langoustine with Pernod aioli and aged Parmesan or a boudin of pheasant with textured onions, Calvados, caramelised quail yolk and sauce Albert.

Main courses demonstrate a prime contribution to those Awards, with finesse and imagination from Executive Chef Paul Tamburrini and his team involved to a remarkable level. The veal and snails includes Swiss  chard, sweetbreads and snails, pommes maxims, morel and salsify emulsion. Challans duck has chive and ginger oyster, barley, porridge tuile and xérès vinegar. Round off with chocolate and salted caramel délice, with amaretto ice cream, crème vierge and sesame tuile to complete a meal that has taken you to the stars.

Whilst one might argue that the whole point of being in a du Vin is to snuggle up to the wine list, this list is designed to march with the food and can only be described as superb. With a team of two sommeliers, headed here by Cormac McGettigan, there is no room for anything but the best. Service is telepathic in the best possible sense.

Click on their Website for full information and rates. Hotel du Vin, with fourteen options throughout Britain, awaits your call.