Bistro at Hotel du Vin - Harrogate

We hear a great deal about recycling these days - du Vin recycles attractive but un-loved buildings to restore real gems in the best tradition of British understated style.

Complement that with all that is best in the French bistro ethos, bars that reach out to please, and you have a setting that provides an inspirational background for people to meet, do business, get married, provide a base for golf or fishing, somewhere you can call your own for a private celebration, a spa or - most engagingly - a wine school that breaks the mould.

In Harrogate du Vin has brought together eight Georgian styled houses overlooking the 200 acre common called The Stray. Within they have installed 43 superb bedrooms and strikingly airy loft suites, with pristine beds, luxurious Egyptian linen and unique décor. All beds have handsprung mattresses, fine Egyptian linen, deep baths and power showers. High speed wireless internet access is available in all rooms.

In the classy bistro serviced by Head Chef, Murray Wilson and his team expect to find the impeccable service for which Hotel du Vin is renowned. Starters of mushroom soup with truffle oil: grilled Cornish sardines with ratatouille and basil oil, or a local game terrine, with fig chutney and hazelnut and raisin bread. From amongst seven or so main courses the pan fried turbot with braised oxtail and cockles appeals to those who like something a little different, whilst carnivores can enjoy themselves with a Hereford cross, dry aged, grass fed, rib eye steak from Sykes House Farm, with fat cut chips.

Amongst the simple classics spare more than a thought for the fish pie, or the braised lamb shoulder with fondant potato, spinach and goat's cheese.

Whilst one might argue that the whole point of being in a du Vin is to snuggle up to the wine list, this list is designed to march with the food and can only be described as superb. With a team of four sommeliers, headed here by Nicolas Jacquemin, there is no room for anything but the best. They have a Cruvinet wine machine, said to be possessed of magical powers. Perhaps a little testing might be in order? Service is telepathic in the best possible sense.

Click on their Website for full information and rates. Hotel du Vin, with fourteen options throughout Britain, awaits your call.