Bistro at Hotel du Vin - Tunbridge Wells

We hear a great deal about recycling these days - du Vin recycles attractive but un-loved buildings to restore real gems in the best tradition of British understated style.

Complement that with all that is best in the French bistro ethos, bars that reach out to please, and you have a setting that provides an inspirational background for people to meet, do business, get married, provide a base for golf or fishing, somewhere you can call your own for a private celebration, a spa or - most engagingly - a wine school that breaks the mould.

Think quintessential British style. Elegant and unpretentious. Combine this with great spirit, wit, an unquestionable devotion to wine, and you have captured the essence of Hotel du Vin.

In Tunbridge Wells, du Vin has taken on one of the historic spa town's architectural landmarks, a Grade II-listed sandstone mansion built as a private residence in 1762. With infinite care they have sought to retain the historic detail of this fine building whilst adding the sort of comforts of which earlier generations were unable to take advantage.

Thirty four stylish bedrooms and suites all offer handsprung mattresses, and fine Egyptian linen; thirty rooms have deep baths and power showers, four have power showers only. High speed wireless internet access is available in all rooms.

The hallmark Bistro, so much an essential part of a Hotel du Vin, is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner, offering a menu that is rooted in classic European cuisine with a contemporary edge. Under Head Chef Paul Nixon the company philosophy of using the finest and freshest local produce cooked simply and priced sensibly is closely followed.

The same menu is deployed for lunch or dinner, starting with a choice of nine dishes that could include roast tomato soup, Thai beef salad with pickled vegetables, deep fried frogs' legs served with aioli or Kentish lamb croquette with grain mustard dressing. From amongst the simple classics those who dare may select the Jerusalem artichoke soup or perhaps the Uig Lodge Scottish smoked salmon with lemon and caper berries. The classics choices extend into main courses, in particular keep an eye open in season for the roast partridge with bread pudding and game chips, one of the finest dishes nature provides.

Other main courses might centre round the grilled plaice with garlic butter and new potatoes, braised blade of beef with mushrooms, red wine jus and parsnip mash, or guinea fowl with roast potato, wild mushrooms and pancetta. A splendid range of side dishes includes buttered spinach, haricot verts, vanilla roasted carrots and roast sweet potato with garlic butter.

Whilst one might argue that the whole point of being in a du Vin is to snuggle up to the wine list, this list is designed to march with the food and can only be described as superb. With a team of three sommeliers, headed here by Nicolas Charriere, there is no room for anything but the best. Indeed I would go further and say that for the wine list alone a visit to a Hotel du Vin is more than worth while. Service is telepathic in the best possible sense.

Click on their Website for full information and rates. Hotel du Vin, with fourteen options throughout Britain, awaits your call.