Bistro Julienne

The rise and rise of the Merchant Square district in Glasgow is only one example of the regeneration of this fine city that has spanned the last 20 years. In a state of constant rivalry with Edinburgh, Glasgow has always known how to enjoy itself, even if this is sometimes seen to be too well, and it has never lost its talent for cheerful, cheeky pleasure.

Almost inevitably this has been supplemented of late by, shall we say, a rather more sophisticated approach to the subject, which is where places like Bistro Julienne come into their own. Unashamedly French in its approach the menu takes some of the best of the Gallic approach, offering dishes such as onion soup gratinée, escargots, duck confit, seafood risotto and a lively coq au vin. Where the French so often win is that they don't relapse into a culinary coma after producing good main dishes, neglecting the ancillaries, such as coffee, wine and - dare one say it in Scotland - cheese even.

So it should come as no surprise to find that the whole meal approach prevails here, breeding a feeling of confidence at the time and continuing enjoyment afterwards.

Banquette seating, the traditional zinc-topped bar and an oyster bar all help towards that slightly raffish frisson that goes with true bistros anywhere.

The French have long been champions of the half bottle of wine, and there is a brilliant choice at Bistro Julienne, the sort of place you could take your granny or your latest love with complete assurance - but perhaps not at the same time.