Bistro Rock

Bistro Rock on The Green at Harpenden is the sort of modern contemporary bar and restaurant that has emerged as the answer to a new pace of life where movement and precision are the keywords. From the moment of arrival it offers a friendly and relaxed atmosphere, with a hum of warmth rather than noise, and a metaphorical embrace.

Given that sort of welcome the challenge to the team who supply is no mean feat, and it's pleasing to report that it is fully met, and then some. The interior has clean sleek lines and is uncluttered. A sunny terrace looks out over country fields and the feeling is of walking into a large private house whose owner might have done well out of Grand Designs.

The kitchen brigade is led by Thomas Secchi and Eamon Moore, all with sound local experience and an awareness of what their guests really like. Starters of pan-fried goat's cheese wrapped in Parma ham arrive with a rocket salad, or there's a risotto of crayfish, red onion, soft herbs and shaved Parmesan. Of the eight starters available at any one time the sautéed wild mushrooms on toasted brioche topped off with a poached egg is one of the most convincing.

Not only is the main menu competent in execution it carries a confidence that transforms even familiar dishes into something more, witness the Cumberland sausage served on a wholegrain mustard mash and surrounded by onion gravy which has just the right balance.

Pastas and risottos are ideal for sharing - or not, if your day has been long and devoid of much in the way of replenishment, and a selection of warm tapas includes spicy meatballs, potatoes in tomato and chilli sauce, marinated sardines and grilled chorizo. The competition of linguine with king prawns, courgette, lemon and white wine should not be underrated, and the Italian antipasti of cured meats are inspired.

The main courses, with six choices, have a high bar to jump after what has gone before and whilst all make it over I would single out the pan-fried fillet of sea-bass with flame roasted red pepper bok-choy chilli and ginger dressing as more than special, with a real Asian pull to it.

An imaginative new concept is pulling the less formal customers in. It is hard to imagine any difference of opinion over the way in which the food is prepared at Bistro Rock, particularly when in the Plancha Garden the family or group can arrive, elect their cook, order their food and get on with the cooking their way. One word of warning - make a reservation, this is a real hot spot in town.

For more information, party details and menu changes a click on their Website does it all.