Black Bear, The

It is the dream of many to find a Dickensian-type inn tucked well away from the hub of modern lunacy, but possessed of an eccentricity all its own, with sound food. In broad terms any pub that offers Timothy Taylor's Landlord, or London Pride even, is well on the way. Add to it an owner, Stephen Molyneux, who goes off to the local food shops in the morning, buys what he likes and then comes home to consider what he can make of it for his guests.

Combine these things together and the google of your mind will almost certainly come up with The Black Bear, a complete law unto itself. Ask not what it on the menu when you make your reservation because the chances are Stephen won't know. But with a bit of luck you could be in line for a pheasant terrine, some Usk salmon, a whole Dover sole with lime jelly glaze, or beef medallions in Madeira sauce.

Praise be that such places are still with us. Long may they remain.