In the long quest for the perfect inn with all the qualities that so many people look for, particularly those of a certain age, The Black Boys Inn has to be a very serious contender.

Until recently a clapped out old boozer it has achieved a complete identity change under inspired new management, wisely retaining the bits that needed to be, mercilessly getting rid of the tat, with predictably good results. Adrian and Helen Bannister are the inspired couple, more than ably assisted by their chef, Simon Bonwick, a man of parts and generally credited with being on a different planet than most, all of which is greatly to the advantage of those fortunate people who eat at his tables.

Game comes from the nearby Hambledon estate, fish overnight from Newlyn, all part of a policy to use nothing but the best and freshest. On a convincingly short menu expect to find Henley smoked eel with beetroot bavarois and horseradish sauce; fresh crab from Salcombe in a mayonnaise, with pink grapefruit and ginger jelly; a delicious charcuterie plate with bottled belly pork and rabbit haunch.

Main courses offer slow roast Tamworth pig belly with cider gravy, or roasted rack of local venison with autumn vegetables and rowan jelly, followed by Armagnac cream with Agen prune compote, or a hot French style beignette with their own lemon curd. A short wine list meets all reasonable aspirations.

Helpings are generous, prices incredibly reasonable, and the atmosphere is just fantastic.

And if force majeure, or just plain common sense even, obliges you to stay the night you will rest well before going for a morning stroll along the riverside path after a memorable breakfast.