Proceeding up and down the A1, whether it be (M) or not can be a pretty soul-destroying business, both gastronomically and otherwise, perhaps never more so than in the region round about Scotch Corner. The Black Bull provides a welcome, if albeit temporary return to a decent standard of food and welcome, with the additional attraction that you will be dining in a former Brighton Belle Pullman carriage, where any formality is tempered by the relaxation offered by excellent, friendly service.

Emphasis is on seafood with some pretty imaginative interpretations to tempt the tastebuds. A typical menu could include oysters or smoked salmon, followed by lobster thermidor or with garlic butter, some wild sea bass or a faultlessly prepared Dover sole. However, this is no exclusion zone and the menu may list roast rack of lamb or pan fried fillet of beef. At lunchtime a good range of lighter meals are available in the bar, with a roaring fire for a comfortable background, particularly on one of those days when the A66 to Penrith is blocked by snow - again.

Some very recognisable and local draught beers are kept well, but the wine list is the real star, which represents really good value and choice. Bottles of house wine start at £12.95 and three off the list come at £3.75 the glass. No children under 7 years.