Black Swan @ Ockham, The

The Black Swan at Ockham is a clear example of how classy and rustic are elements that no longer need to stay at extreme ends of the spectrum; they can be incorporated beautifully, resulting in a dining space that is warm, relaxed and cosy. From its rather murky past as a bikers' hangout to its present day transformation as a friendly and family oriented gastropub, it has indeed trodden a long path thanks to Geronimo Inns.

There's plenty of wood and brick and squashy sofas to lounge in, creating a sense of bonhomie that is not lost whether you're enjoying a pint at the bar or a more formal meal in the large vaulted room. Rough sawn timber, antique furnishings, wooden rafters and moody lighting imbue a sense of nostalgic cosiness that draws people inside, time and again.

The menu has been designed by Mark Bletchford of Soho House in New York and is impressive, and in the hands of Head Chef Jason Loveridge it entirely lives up to its promise.

For a quick lunch, there are few things better than their sandwiches and wraps, and choices include a grilled lamb burger with bacon and cheese, served with chips and salad. The chicken liver parfait with wild mushroom confit or the Scottish smoked salmon make delicious starters and further down, mains could include Cumberland sausages, champ mash and rich onion gravy or a classic tuna steak Niçoise salad with anchovies.

In the evenings, you could expect a more elaborate beginning where a glass of house champagne is served on arrival. Commence with ham hock and baby vegetable terrine with homemade piccalilli or a tian of crab with tomato, avocado and sauce vierge and move onto a rib eye steak with peppercorn sauce and grilled mushrooms and tomatoes. Other options for main course include fillet of sea bass with potato fennel and asparagus tart or calves' liver with chorizo and sweet pepper mash.

Amongst the luscious desserts, there's a blueberry and almond tart with pistachio ice cream or a strawberry mascarpone mousse. There's also a selection of British cheeses served with fig chutney and oat biscuits for those who prefer more savoury endings to their meal. The wine list is eclectic, and shows plenty of promise with some interesting French, Italian and New World bottles, and has been put together by John Clevely, Master of Wine.

For more information, do visit their Website, which also has details of all the other pubs owned by Geronimo Inns.