Blacksmiths Inn, The

Tucked away in deepest rural Yorkshire - and it does not get much deeper than that - The Blacksmiths Inn is something of a sheep in wolf's clothing. Outwardly a comfortable and unpretentious pub, customers walk inside to find quite a formal restaurant awaits them.

The same yardstick applies to the food, best described as 'pub dishes with restaurant thinking'. The Blacksmith's may be wonderfully rural but it has some equally wonderful suppliers within easy distance, amongst them the increasingly popular Ginger Pig at Levisham, doing for the distinctive porker what Neal's Yard has done for cheese.

Amongst the starters expect to see seared home-cured treacle salmon, pickled cucumber and soda bread, or a salad of black pudding, free range sausage, soft boiled egg and piccalilli. Main dishes could field 'posh' fish and chips, beer-battered coley made with Timothy Taylor's Landlord, a crime against humanity so far as beer drinkers are concerned that is rendered excusable when you taste the results, served with triple-cooked chips and the house tomato ketchup.

Follow that with sticky toffee pudding blessed by a Muscovado sauce and your pleasure will be complete. Gary Marshall runs the pub, with his wife, and takes pride in the wine list from some 60 bins.

This is definitely one to watch, with Awards already being picked up. Go whilst they still have room and the prices remain at their extremely reasonable levels.