Blue Boar, The

A very English sort of place, with a long history of providing for the weary traveller in whatever form he or she may take. The success of their approach centres mainly round the fact that each customer is seen as an individual, and given the tendency to regard people as units in an equation this attitude is refreshing. And that's before you get anywhere near the Old Speckled Hen.

The Blue Boar has embraced with enthusiasm the pub-grub movement, going well beyond the point at which some have called time. Whilst they are proud of their homely and familiar food, the truth surely is that many a restaurant would be pleased to serve the quality and range of food offered here.

With starters of Peking duck, shredded duck breast with a julienne of spring onion and cucumber, in a plum sauce on crispy filo wontons, they set a standard that is well supported by a generous smoked salmon platter, devilled herring roes, and delightfully creamy hot garlic mushrooms.

Main courses are clearly presented under their vegetarian, fish and meats banners, with Thai spiced seasonal vegetables offering a green curry based medley, baked fillet of cod in a mild curry sauce, chilli con carne on saffron rice, pot roasted fillet of pork and a truly mouth-watering steak and ale pie.

A recent addition to the main courses is the monkfish and sunblush tomato gnocchi. A grilled 12oz sirloin steak comes with a full supporting cast, and a choice of four sauces. But for a meal to remember go for the The Blue Boar mixed Grill, a filling affair of 14oz of grilled meat, homemade chips, onion rings, grilled tomato, all topped off with a fried egg.

Desserts, all made by Julia, offer an exacting choice of temptations with charlotte Malakoff, made from ground almonds, cream and butter and encased in brandy-soaked sponge as an absolute star. That great old favourite, spotted dick is served with the traditional custard, and the traditional fruit crumble puts in a welcome appearance. People have been know to travel considerable distances for her banana crunch. Not everybody will approve of Stilton soaked in port, preferring that process to take place within them, if at all, but 10 out of 10 for effort!

Sunday lunch is taken pretty seriously in the Shires, and here the traditional dishes are well supported by an imaginative range of choices on their set menu. The wine list is set out under straightforward headings, with short, snappy annotations that give the message clearly. Good honest claret - yes, I like it. For those who like a decent pint take heart from the four cask ales always on tap, with The Shakespeare Brewery only four miles down the road.

Looking after travellers involves a good night's rest, and 15 en-suite rooms have been added to the inn, making it an attractive venue for a family gathering, conference, or other business occasions.