Boat Inn, The

There is something very appealing about an inn by the river, particularly one as romantic and well-found as the 16th century Boat at Erbistock, on the banks of the River Dee. Historically important as a ferry crossing, the landing stage and windlass used to power it are still in position. During the Civil War Oliver Cromwell is said to have stayed here, and formulated his plans to occupy Chester.

The interior is exactly what you would expect, with the traditional mix of oak beams, stone flags and open fireplaces creating a setting that is ideal for so many occasions, including weddings and special family events, not forgetting the annual raft race when the Boat hosts an array of weird and wonderful craft.

The food matches well with the ambience - nothing too fancy, just good honest well cooked and presented dishes that strike an instant chord with healthily hungry people, be they wedding guests, rafters in distress or passers-by looking for value and quality.

Starters live up to the name and provide a firm basis for what is to follow. Steamed Bantry Bay mussels are spiced up with pan fried chorizo, garlic and coriander in a tomato and wine sauce. Tuna and lemon pate is served with homemade chutney and warm brioche, or there's the Boat Inn favourite of a chicken Caesar salad.

Mains of haggis-stuffed chicken breast comes with a white wine and tarragon cream sauce, and a 10oz ribeye steak is first marinated in olive oil and cracked black pepper.

Puddings feature the local Erbistock ice cream, served in a brandy snap basket with fruit coulis, though if I'd just spent half a day in and out of the River Dee with a raft for company I think I'd be heading for the chocolate and brioche pudding served with rum soaked raisins and vanilla custard, preceded of course by the soup of the day and some char-grilled fillet of beef with a red onion compote.

A well stocked bar offers the customary good cheer, with a wine list that is kind to the menu as well as the pocket.