It is good to know that some things never change. In a previous existence I spent a not inconsiderable amount of time between Ullswater and Eskdale, the latter invariably made even more beguiling by a meal at The Bower House. And little has changed, except that the meals are probably even better than they were then. The inn may be a mere four miles from the coast road but we are talking about some of the most beautiful and timeless pieces of England here.

Within is a buzz of conversation interlaced with ticking clocks, crackling fires and domestic noises. The aroma is a pleasant one made up of homely things like, mud, dogs, fox contacts, woodsmoke and - yes, let it be said - food. Nothing fancy, mark you, all good wholesome home-cooked food, much of it from local sources, no fussiness or over-preparation. Snails in garlic butter is about as daring as it gets, but interesting food is not an obstacle course - leave that to the Outward Bound School just up the road.

Also on offer is some of the local Herdwick lamb, smoked and with a minted apply jelly.

Morecambe Bay is near enough so expect potted shrimps with hot buttered toast, and the cider and onion soup is a new experience for many, particularly if combined with blue cheese topping. Local fish and fowl make welcome posthumous appearances, with pheasant, venison, duck and salmon prominent. I still think roast pheasant with whisky sauce makes one of the best marriages of flavour known to man. Their Aberdeen Angus sirloin steaks generally appear peppered, flamed in brandy and finished with cream, or for those of a more adventurous frame of mind there are Ostrich fillet steaks Rossini.