Brackenbury, The

The Brackenbury has had a somewhat turbulent progress until about four years ago when it was bought out by Lisa Inglis who, with Joe Joynt as manager is showing all the signs of getting it right. And what a deserving sort of place it is! In the heart of Brackenbury Village it has the character and laid back charm that a good neighbourhood restaurant needs.

The bottom-freezing wooden benches are no more, replaced with positively luxurious, upholstered simple seats. The décor has changed too with bold primary colours used to give warmth and a touch, rather than a dollop, of bohemian influence.

In terms of food the style is modern European with quite a few backward glances to British tradition. A regularly changing menu displays a set lunch that is arguably some of the best value in town. If it's been one of those mornings, and the afternoon poses a few unknowns as well, to start with a blood orange fizz or a champagne cocktail could be doing yourself, as well as those around you, a real kindness.

Start with duck livers on toast or avocado salad with herb vinaigrette, before taking the tough decision on fish tempura or sautéed chicken and bacon. Originality shines through with Battenburg, poached rhubarb and cream, or American pancakes, banana, and maple syrup.

The set dinner is a close runner to lunch in the value for money stakes with 3 courses for £18, 2 for £15. A starter of grilled sardines, gremolata, or minestrone soup could be followed by deep fried pollock and chips, or rigatoni with mushroom cream. They are pretty keen on their rhubarb at The Brackenbury, and rightly so with its wonderfully healthy qualities and early spring habit. Rhubarb and custard fool, of which the appearance on the table at school was the signal for groans and ribald comment, was actually a blessing in disguise that we ignorant little twits did not recognise, and here it is again at this admirable restaurant.

The a la carte dinner comes with a choice of nine starters of which smoked eel, celeriac remoulade, and pork and pigeon terrine with greengage chutney are but two. A warm duck salad with soft boiled egg makes for temptation, as does the deep fried gurnard with tartare sauce.

The seven main courses start with brill, sauté potatoes and wild mushrooms, or there's grilled calf's liver with Jerusalem artichokes and Madeira. A ribeye steak is served conventionally with homemade chips and horseradish cream, whilst their Gruyere omelette is a staple on the menu, and deservedly renowned to boot. A good range of five side orders, all at £2.50 enables some picking and choosing to suit the dish.

Our noble proprietor himself is a not unknown fan of The Brack - what better recommendation could there be? Reports speak well of the service, and a wine list that is fairly priced, and has something for everyone.