Branca opened in 2000 to the sound of trumpets as it focussed on a wide gap in the university city's gastronomic provision, and has never looked back. Modern design and a mature approach to what they do certainly help. Branca says of itself "we tend to be a lively venue, casual in feel but with generous warm service". This statement offers one of those all too rare occasions when the spin lives up to the reality and with up-to-the-minute information reflecting snappy management and genuine interest in the customer it is not difficult to see why Branca is such a success.

The menu follows the same pattern, designed to inform and simplify rather than confuse. From the antipasta comes a mixed taster plate of three separately listed items, the deep fried squid, parma ham and buffalo mozzarella. The stone baked pizzas also do a mixed platter of which pepperoni, fontina cheese, chilli and spinach is but one. Meat and fish tend to follow a less Italian path, but the real thing is there if required. Puddings are a medley of Italian indulgence, a delight to people of any age but especially to children who are made to feel very adult and important at Branca.

The wine list is brief but perfectly adequate, all Italian as you might expect, with six reds, six whites one of which, a Sicilian, is the house wine at £11.45 a bottle. Branca deserves every bit of the success it is reaping.

Reviewed by Michael Tebbutt