Brasserie and Bar at Malmaison - Edinburgh

The Malmaison group of hotels has established throughout Britain a collection of centres of excellence where nothing but the best will do. As a concept alone this is exciting, but the reality is brilliant, so that at last there is a hotel group where uniformity of standards is of the same high calibre. Malmaison Edinburgh is located in the newly fashionable area of Leith, following the spectacular transformation of an existing building.

Inside the décor is stylish with marked French overtones, matching the general buzz factor that makes this one of the more popular places not only to stay in Scotland's capital city, but also to eat in comfort surrounded by good taste. The bedrooms are all that one would expect from a hotel that has genuine regard for its guests and is concerned with every aspect of their wellbeing and they are uniquely designed in either vibrant colours or muted shades. Room 121 deserves a special mention - a four poster bed with regal fabrics, a stunning high ceiling and views of the cobbled courtyard to the River Leith - its pure decadence.

Amidst elegant surroundings, with spotless gleaming glassware and shining cutlery, an essentially brasserie menu is offered from which lovers of seafood will be delighted to note at once that their particular needs are well heeded, starting with a delightful mussel and saffron chowder or a devilled whitebait. That very brasserie dish, eggs Florentine with toasted ciabatta, has staged a comeback, and can be taken here as a starter or main course. Roast parsnip soup seldom fails to please, and a game terrine is served with homemade pickles and sour dough.

An inspired choice is the roast loin of mutton with cabbage and bacon, and there's braised Buccleuch lamb shank with pea puree for those seeking by this time a slightly more carnivoristic approach. Which leads us neatly to the, wait for it, Mal burger, a 225 gram burger made from ground beef tucked into a floured bap to join bacon and gruyere, served with homemade relish and some fries. Vegetarians are well looked after - the sautéed wild mushroom, poached egg polenta sounded appealing, and there is an excellent sweet corn risotto with basil pesto.

Over the years the number of outriders surrounding a good honest steak on the plate have grown to unacceptable dimensions. At Malmaison the thought and care is centred on the dry-aged on the bone Scottish rump and that's it - except for the chips. If you want all the rest go for the side dishes, but steak and chips on its own takes some beating.

Heading the puddings is the vanilla crème caramel, a triumph of timing and co-ordination, supported by other choices amongst which expect to find cranberry and walnut tart or a splendid apple crumble with pouring cream. Their homemade ice creams and sorbets are dreamy.

Their wine list is a symphony of its kind, clearly compiled by an enthusiast who knows his wines well enough not to disappear into a world of hyperbole when describing them.

Their Website is a wealth of information that will, I predict, only serve to increase your resolve to make Malmaison your next stop in Edinburgh. It is worth noting that you can also make reservations Online on their Website.