Brasserie and Bar at Malmaison - Leeds

The Malmaison group of hotels has established throughout Britain a collection of centres of excellence where nothing but the best will do. As a concept alone this is exciting, but the reality is brilliant, so that at last there is a hotel group where uniformity of standards is of the same high calibre.

Malmaison also have a happy penchant for selecting buildings of character for their hotels and restaurants, in this particular case a former bus company office that stands majestically on a corner site in Leeds. As their publicity says 'head to the bar in the back, a low lit den of fine wine and devilishly divine dining'. Couldn't put it better myself.

The bedrooms are all that one would expect from a hotel that has genuine regard for its guests and is concerned with every aspect of their wellbeing. Rich, warm tones of aubergine and plum with taupe help build a seductive and lavish atmosphere.

Amidst elegant surroundings, with spotless gleaming glassware and shining cutlery, an essentially brasserie menu is offered. Lovers of seafood will be delighted to note at once that their particular needs are well heeded, starting with a delightful mussel and clam chowder.

That very brasserie dish, eggs Florentine has staged a comeback recently and can be taken here as a starter or main course. Other starters include a game terrine with homemade piccalilli and toasted sourdough and carpaccio of beef fillet with rocket and artichoke salad and parmesan shavings.

An inspired choice amongst the main courses is the pan fried halibut with crisp potato, pancetta and wild mushrooms while the braised ox cheek with smoked mash is just perfect for those seeking by this time a slightly more carnivoristic approach. Which leads us neatly to the, wait for it, Mal burger, a 250 gram burger made from ground beef tucked into a floured bap to join bacon and gruyere, served with homemade relish and some fries.

Over the years the number of outriders surrounding a good honest steak on the plate have grown to unacceptable dimensions. At Malmaison the thought and care is centred on the dry-aged on the bone Scottish rump and that's it - except for the chips. If you want all the rest go for the side dishes, but steak and chips on its own takes some beating. Vegetarians are well looked after - the courgette and gruyere soufflé with bitter leaves, wet Italian polenta with wild mushroom and poached egg and the sweet corn risotto with basil pesto sound appealing.

Heading the puddings is the House crème brûlée, a triumph of timing and co-ordination, supported by other choices amongst which expect to find a Valrhona chocolate and griottine roulade and steamed toffee and banana pudding. Their homemade ice creams and sorbets are dreamy while their renowned cheese trolley has a selection of British and French farmhouse cheeses served with an assortment of breads, biscuits and a choice of fig, apricot or date loaf.

Their wine list is a symphony of its kind, clearly compiled by an enthusiast who knows his wines well enough not to disappear into a world of hyperbole when describing them.

Their Website is a wealth of information that will, I predict, only serve to increase your resolve to make Malmaison your next stop in Leeds. It is worth noting that you can also make reservations Online on their Website.