Brasserie and Bar at Malmaison - Liverpool

The Malmaison group of hotels has established throughout Britain a collection of centres of excellence where nothing but the best will do. As a concept alone this is exciting, but the reality is brilliant, so that at last there is a hotel group where uniformity of standards is of the same high calibre.

Malmaison Liverpool is located in the trendy Princes Dock area, an impressive Manhattan type building that relates well to the exciting new buildings that are mingling with the more traditional in this European City of Culture.

The rooms are all that one would expect from a hotel that has genuine regard for its guests and is concerned with every aspect of their wellbeing. In the hometown of the Beatles expect to find close attention paid to the musical background in your room, whilst all the customary luxuries that associate with Malmaison are there to hand, the naughty nibbles, the serious wine, drench showers and that oh so completely embracing bed.

Amidst elegant surroundings, with spotless gleaming glassware and shining cutlery, an essentially brasserie menu is offered. At the brasserie lovers of seafood will be delighted to note at once that their particular needs are well heeded, starting with a delightful moules marinère with crusty bread, or smoked haddock, course grain mustard and poached egg.

Other starters that seldom fail to please include a soothing mutton and barley broth; fresh corn beef terrine, warm piccalilli and toasted sourdough; chicken liver parfait with toasted brioche and grape chutney, and roasted beetroot and goats? cheese salad, toasted pine nuts, and balsamic reduction.

An inspired choice for the main course is the salmon and cod fishcake, spinach and parsley sauce, with confit duck leg, sautéed potatoes, honey and citrus glaze for those seeking by this time a slightly more carnivoristic approach. Dinnertime pizzas and the traditional Liverpool scouse with braised red cabbage and crusty bread are other lovely creations. Which leads us neatly to the, wait for it, Mal burger, a 250 gram burger made from ground beef tucked into a floured bap to join bacon and gruyere, served with homemade relish and some fries.

Over the years the number of outriders surrounding a good honest steak have grown to unacceptable dimensions. At Malmaison the thought and care is centred on the dry-aged on the bone Scottish rump and that's it - except for the chips. If you want all the rest go for the side dishes, but steak and chips on its own takes some beating. Vegetarians are well looked after - the winter root vegetable and gorgonzola lasagne is tempting, and there is wild mushroom and barley risotto with tarragon infused oil.

Heading the puddings is the House crème brûlée, a triumph of timing and co-ordination, supported by other choices amongst which expect to find bread and butter pudding; blood orange and dark chocolate torte or a splendid rhubarb cheesecake. Their homemade ice creams and sorbets are dreamy.

Their wine list is a symphony of its kind, clearly compiled by an enthusiast who knows his wines well enough not to disappear into a world of hyperbole when describing them.

Their Website is a wealth of information that will, I predict, only serve to increase your resolve to make Malmaison your next stop in Liverpool. It is worth noting that you can also make reservations Online on their Website.