Brasserie and Bar at Malmaison - London

The Malmaison group of hotels has established throughout Britain a collection of centres of excellence where nothing but the best will do. As a concept alone this is exciting, but the reality is brilliant, so that at last there is a hotel group where uniformity of standards is of the same high calibre.

Hidden behind a Victorian-brick façade in the cobbled courtyard of leafy Charterhouse Square you will find the atmospheric Malmaison London. An oasis of calm in the heart of trendy Clerkenwell yet on the edge of the Square Mile and just minutes away from the Barbican and Smithfield Markets - the best of all worlds. Architecturally superb, in its past life it served as a nurses' residence for St Bartholomew's hospital. The bedrooms are all that one would expect from a hotel that has genuine regard for its guests and is concerned with every aspect of their wellbeing.

The hotel has ninety-seven elegant rooms and one suite, all of which are great for business trips or luxury weekend breaks. A calm yet fresh milieu is created by the understated décor of lilac, dove and earth fabric tones.

Amidst elegant surroundings, with crisp linen, spotless gleaming glassware and shining cutlery, an essentially brasserie menu is offered, from which lovers of seafood will be delighted to note at once that their particular needs are well heeded, starting with salt and pepper squid, chilli and lime mayonnaise, and grilled Maldon warm smoked salmon, fennel salad, and herb fromage blanc. For those looking for the traditional lift in life there are Maldon gigas or fines de Claire oysters grown by Richard Emans.

Other choices that seldom fail to please include a delightful mutton, vegetables and pearl barley broth; 'cebo' Iberico ham gran reserve with roast beetroot and figs, an assiette of charcuterie with buffalo mozzarella and sun blushed tomatoes, and terrine of braised pig's head that is served with warm Granny Smith apple puree. Choices such as butternut squash and mascarpone tortellini with wild rocket and walnut butter can be taken here as a starter or main course.

An inspired choice is the crab and sea scallops risotto with parmesan and crème fraiche, with roast saddle of lamb, shoulder cottage pie and carrots for those seeking by this time a slightly more carnivoristic approach. Which leads us neatly to the, wait for it, Mal burger, a 225 gram burger made from ground beef tucked into a floured bap to join bacon and gruyere, served with homemade relish and some fries.

Over the years the number of outriders surrounding a good honest steak on the plate have grown to unacceptable dimensions. At Malmaison the thought and care is centred on the dry-aged on the bone Scottish rump and that's it - except for the chips. If you want all the rest go for the side dishes, but steak and chips on its own takes some beating. Vegetarians are well looked after - the sautéed wild mushroom, poached egg polenta sounded appealing, and there is an excellent House salad.

Heading the puddings is the Malmaison vanilla crème brûlée, a triumph of timing and co-ordination, supported by other choices amongst which expect to find pistachio and polenta cake with cherry sorbet, chocolate fondant bulleit bourbon ice cream or a splendid apple crumble with frangelico custard. Their homemade ice creams and sorbets are dreamy.

Their wine list is a symphony of its kind, clearly compiled by an enthusiast who knows his wines well enough not to disappear into a world of hyperbole when describing them.

Their Website is a wealth of information that will, I predict, only serve to increase your resolve to make Malmaison your next stop in London. It is worth noting that you can also make reservations Online on their Website.