Brasserie and Bar at Malmaison - Manchester

The Malmaison group of hotels has established throughout Britain a collection of centres of excellence where nothing but the best will do. As a concept alone this is exciting, but the reality is brilliant, so that at last there is a hotel group where uniformity of standards is of the same high calibre.

The rooms are all that one would expect from a hotel that has genuine regard for its guests and is concerned with every aspect of their wellbeing. Stylishly decorated in red and black, there's an element of sexy sophistication whereas comfort levels are consistently on the mark.

The brasserie is an elegant oasis, with crisp linen, spotless gleaming glassware and shining cutlery, while rich dark colours, flickering candles and intimate booth style seating accentuate the atmosphere. Lovers of seafood will be delighted to note at once that their particular needs are well heeded, starting with a delightful mussel and clam chowder. For those looking for the traditional lift in life, oysters are served with shallot and red wine vinegar, lemon and Tabasco sauce.

Other tempting starters include sautéed chicken liver with grape and walnut salad; game terrine with homemade piccalilli and toasted sourdough or a refreshing smoked duck, orange and beets salad.

An inspired choice is the fillet of dorade with pomme lyonaise and orange jus or a braised lamb shank for those seeking by this time a slightly more carnivoristic approach. Which leads us neatly to the, wait for it, Mal burger, a 250 gram burger made from ground beef tucked into a floured bap to join bacon and gruyere, served with homemade relish and some fries.

Over the years the number of outriders surrounding a good honest steak have grown to unacceptable dimensions. At Malmaison the thought and care is centred on the dry-aged on the bone sirloin except for the chips. If you want all the rest go for the side dishes, but steak and chips on its own takes some beating. Vegetarians are well looked after - the courgette and gruyere soufflé with bitter leaves, wet Italian polenta with wild mushroom and poached egg and the sweet corn risotto with basil pesto sound appealing.

Heading the puddings is the House crème brûlée, a triumph of timing and co-ordination, supported by other choices amongst which expect to find chocolate truffle cake with pistachio ice cream and toffee fudge pavlova. Their homemade ice creams and sorbets are dreamy while their renowned cheese trolley has a selection of British and French farmhouse cheeses served with an assortment of breads, biscuits and a choice of fig, apricot or date loaf.

Their wine list is a symphony of its kind, clearly compiled by an enthusiast who knows his wines well enough not to disappear into a world of hyperbole when describing them.

Their Website is a wealth of information that will, I predict, only serve to increase your resolve to make Malmaison your next stop in Manchester. It is worth noting that you can also make reservations Online on their Website.